Gucci Men’s Fall/Winter 2024

Gucci Men’s Fall/Winter 2024

By: Liv Briley

In his first menswear collection with Gucci, debuted at Milan Fashion Week, Sabato de Sarno brought a sophisticated glamor that resonates deeply with the modern menswear landscape. The show was set to be dramatic, with the room going completely dark except for the lit runway as musical stylings by Mark Ronson played in the background. The collection as a whole was fresh and innovative, with nods to de Sarno’s womenswear debut with Gucci last year. Gucci’s theme of “ancora” was still very present in the show, both in the pops of red and the sultry tone. 

Though each piece of the collection demonstrated the detailed nature of de Sarno’s designs, the outerwear stood above the rest. The show began with long, tailored jackets, a mix of tailcoats and modern streetwear, many styled with only a loose-cut tie underneath. Some of the later iterations of this style were floor-length, with the bottom half breaking into two pieces that draped over the pant legs. 

Coats were made of all different types of materials, bringing a new spin to iconic styles. From a looser take on a bomber jacket with heavy fabric and a bejeweled collar to a motorcycle jacket-inspired leather coat, no classic silhouette was presented without slight alterations. A personal favorite outerwear piece was the leather, puffer trench coat that seamlessly blended form and function. 

Textured, pinstripe leather jackets that felt like a fresh take on animal skin and a hoodie elevated enough to be considered workwear are further examples of how de Sarno seems to push the envelope with his designs while staying true to his audience. He even managed to make a fringe cardigan and trench coat feel neutral, providing us with great insight into how people will be styling this 2024 trend prediction. 

Suiting in the collection is incredibly diverse, giving us equal parts elegant tailoring and relaxed fits. The more structured suits had pops of color at the collars and cuffs, with buttons remaining hidden for an added sense of sophistication. The more casual suit options lend themselves to street style and work wear in equal measure. 

Though outerwear is the undisputed star of this collection, other pieces certainly deserve mention. Bejeweled pants were mixed with classic colors and silhouettes for a bit of added flair to evening attire. Other eye-catching pieces included tight chainmail-esque, deep scoop neck tunics and a simple navy jacket with a bedazzled ultra-wide collar. This jacket was one of the six “mirrored” looks from the Gucci women’s SS24 collection that gave male iterations of the same styles from the womenswear line. 

Accessories were in no short supply in this menswear lineup. Mini duffle bags, small backpacks, and leather totes were abundant, with the leather bags often paired with matching leather gloves. Many looks included chain necklaces, but the thin neckties hanging from clunky, metal chains were certainly the most interesting neckpieces in the show. Several of the models sported thin sunglasses that matched the other accessories in their looks, and many pieces were, of course, adorned with the iconic Gucci belt.

The overall colorway was fairly neutral, with the occasional pop of deep reds and striking greens. Many of the looks were monochrome or mono-pattern, drawing attention to silhouette rather than color. 

Sabato de Sarno’s designs are in stark contrast with the past few years of Gucci collections, but he has proven himself to be exactly what the brand needs as they move forward into a new era. 

For more runway coverage, keep reading Square Magazine and follow us on Instagram @um.squaremagazine. 

Images belong to their respective owners.