Ulla Johnson Fall/Winter 2024

Ulla Johnson Fall/Winter 2024

By: Bella Duncan

Ulla Johnson is often characterized by its romantic, feminine silhouettes and prints, but at New York Fashion Week, the fall/winter collection was modeled by both men and women for the first time. 

The collection had a deconstructed menswear feel with stiff silhouettes and pinstriping present alongside warm tones, crocheted pieces, playful prints, and embroidery – all staples of the brand. Johnson clarified that all of the men’s looks were womenswear, pointing out that it is common to see the reverse of women modeling men’s looks on the runway. 

Deep hues including purples, golds, and greens dominated the collection. Signature prints such as florals and animal prints were present on many different silhouettes. Accessories were minimal, limited to simple handbags and glasses, as the unique shapes and patterns were the main focus of the show.

The show took place in Brooklyn’s Powerhouse Arts Warehouse, complete with a shadow-casting sculpture installation from Andrew Ondrejcak and Abby Cheney. Writer Raven Leilani, author of the critically acclaimed novel Luster, also contributed art to the show. An essay titled “On Adornment” was written by Leilani for the show notes, describing the search for beauty and the process of ‘becoming.’ 

Johnson combined her own art with the work of others for a uniquely visceral fashion week experience. 

Keep reading Square Magazine for more fashion week coverage and follow along on Instagram @um.squaremagazine. 

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