Waste Not, Want Not: Why Old Clothing Is The Newest Trend
Waste Not, Want Not: Why Old Clothing Is The Newest Trend
By: Addie Flasck
To most, the phrase “sustainable trends” may seem like an oxymoron. Nevertheless, what began as lockdown innovation has undoubtedly trickled down onto 2021 runways in the form of upcycled, handcrafted, and deconstructed/reconstructed designs. Emerging from a year as upending as 2020, it’s no wonder that post-pandemic trends involve repurposed textiles, knitwear, clashing patterns, and flipped archival pieces. These trends didn’t materialize out of thin air; they’re by the people, for the people, and a direct reflection of the latest crisis.
Tessa McLane, @tesssamac on Instagram.
STAY-AT-HOME STATEMENTS
As with all microtrends, the top crazes of 2021 are physical manifestations of the most recent wants and needs of society. After the pandemic took hold, social distancing, job cuts, and work-from-home orders left the vast majority of people with large amounts of spare time accompanied by very little financial slack. Quarantine led to a new desire for creative outlets, more time for hobbies, and a necessity to improvise. On an individual basis, this translated into tackling Covid-friendly hobbies like knitting, crocheting, or sewing. A new consciousness for frugality meant reworking on-hand material, upcycling thrift finds, or repurposing outdated pieces from the depths of one’s closet. Meanwhile, the fashion industry, suffering colossal damage from the pandemic, wasted no time grasping at the chance to level with consumers.
Kaiwen Shi’s Latest Collection.
The bandwagon began with niche designers like Kaiwen Shi - whose intricate crochet pieces seem to walk the line between real life and a portal to child-like fantasy - and Priya Ahluwalia, who gives surplus material new life through her intricate patchwork designs. By the turn of Spring 2021, enthusiasm towards DIY-inspired garments had rippled into runway looks by some of the biggest names in fashion. Valentino, Kepler, and Robert Einer are only a select few of the many labels that have embraced the knit trend this season.
Valentino Garavani Uomo Crochet Sneakers.
Ahuwalia 2021 (left) and Priya Ahuwalia (right).
The rush by big companies to participate is largely fueled by the potential to connect with consumers on a previously untapped personal level. Facing a generation that craves expression without borders, luxury brands must find ways to contradict the perception of being too pristine, too exclusive, and - frankly - unrelatable. Enter the wake of the pandemic, which opened a window of opportunity for labels to dabble in designs that radiate a “made with love” nostalgia: think Dolly Parton’s Coat of Many Colors, but couture. Alas, designers were practically spoon-fed a chance to form pieces that felt individualistic in a way that everyday consumers could find approachable. JW Anderson became the beacon of down-to-earth luxury brands when the designer went public with detailed sewing instructions for the recreation of Harry Styles's highly sought-after patchwork cardigan. The trend had traveled full circle by being brought back into the reaching arms of ordinary people searching for a productive creative release. It’s no wonder the trend found its way into 2021 lookbooks; following a worldwide emergency, a style as familiar and comforting as handmade knitwear was bound to be hypnotically alluring - as attested to by the absurd amount of crochet tote bags I now have saved on Pinterest.
REDUCE, REUSE, RESELL
The push for handmade designs was even further perpetuated by a far less heartwarming culprit. Fast-fashion - which involves the mass production of fleeting microtrends at a low cost, often at the expense of garment workers and the environment - garnered seething backlash that barrelled across social media platforms over the course of 2020. Online fashion retailers such as Shein and AliExpress have received the brunt of the movement, facing austere criticism for the irrefutable exploitation of employees in the name of manufacturing quicker, cheaper clothing.
Unfortunately for activists, finding a sustainable, ethical alternative to conventional retail at an affordable price can be an intimidating challenge and seemingly nonviable. One solution, however, has posed an opportunity to both promote sustainable fashion and provide an additional source of income: resale. Quarantine closet purging paved the way for online resale companies like Depop and Thredup to skyrocket in popularity.
“Although new, sustainably-sourced, fair-trade clothes are amazing and help benefit workers globally, along with our local economy, they tend to be more expensive and, thus, inaccessible to the general population,” says Emily Ellis, who has been featured as a Depop “Seller to Watch” for her shop Consciousness Clothing, which she founded in July of 2020. “One of my goals with Consciousness Clothing is to keep the cost in mind. There is a reason why large fast fashion brands are as successful as they are: they keep things affordable on the buyer’s end. Why not do the same but in a more sustainable way?”
Consciousness Clothing on Depop.
As an increasing number of users turned to resale platforms in search of guilt-free fashion, ethical consumerism became a trend of its own. Perfectly imperfect items like tote bags crafted from recycled plastic, exposed seams, and clashing patterns have all grown in high demand - and it’s no surprise. One-of-a-kind, reconstructed pieces made from pre-loved material possess a unique charm that simply cannot be recreated by the industrial labor of fast-fashion sweatshops. Now, many buyers specifically seek out resale profiles that tout their wares with tags like “thrifted,” “zero waste,” and “handmade.” Perhaps more excitingly, the trend has inevitably caught the eye of luxury labels, a slew of which have embraced the initiative to go circular with runway looks this season.
DEADSTOCK AND EXCESS INVENTORY
Once upon a time, surfeit fabric and materials were destined for slaughter to preserve value, often burned or dumped in landfills. The word “deadstock” was considered a dirty word in fashion. Following the pandemic, however, it could be the industry’s saving grace. By 2020, learning to grapple with the repercussions of Covid-19 meant manufacturers would have to get innovative with their approach to production. Last year’s online outpour for sustainable fashion presented the perfect opportunity for brands to kill two birds with one stone; using upcycled material would not only suit the ethical desires of consumers, but it would also solve the unsold textile problem.
As an increasing number of users turned to resale platforms in search of guilt-free fashion, ethical consumerism became a trend of its own. Perfectly imperfect items like tote bags crafted from recycled plastic, exposed seams, and clashing patterns have all grown in high demand - and it’s no surprise. One-of-a-kind, reconstructed pieces made from pre-loved material possess a unique charm that simply cannot be recreated by the industrial labor of fast-fashion sweatshops. Now, many buyers specifically seek out resale profiles that tout their wares with tags like “thrifted,” “zero waste,” and “handmade.” Perhaps more excitingly, the trend has inevitably caught the eye of luxury labels, a slew of which have embraced the initiative to go circular with runway looks this season.
DEADSTOCK AND EXCESS INVENTORY
Once upon a time, surfeit fabric and materials were destined for slaughter to preserve value, often burned or dumped in landfills. The word “deadstock” was considered a dirty word in fashion. Following the pandemic, however, it could be the industry’s saving grace. By 2020, learning to grapple with the repercussions of Covid-19 meant manufacturers would have to get innovative with their approach to production. Last year’s online outpour for sustainable fashion presented the perfect opportunity for brands to kill two birds with one stone; using upcycled material would not only suit the ethical desires of consumers, but it would also solve the unsold textile problem.
Duran Lantink 2021.
As of this season, deadstock has shed its stigma and become a way to reimagine excess inventory. Take designer Duran Lantink, for example; based in Amsterdam, he is practically piloting the upcycling movement, having done custom work for Billie Eilish along with collaborations with brands like Ellery, Tiffany & Co., and Cartier. Lantink repurposes discarded luxury garments from big name brands like Prada and Balenciaga in order to form eclectic, sharp cut ensembles. He presents his work with an endearing amount of tongue-in-cheek boyishness, like when mixing the textiles of rival brands. Another testament to the solidity of the trend is the Upcycled by Miu Miu collection, which consists of tastefully reworked 80s vintage dresses from second-hand sources.
Billie Eilish x Duran Lantink.
Hopefully, the carbon-conscious initiatives we’ve seen this year are indicative of more than just a blip in the fashion industry, and labels will continue to push for a more sustainable future long after the trend dissipates. So, while 2020 may have stripped the world of just about everything else, look on the bright side: the pandemic can’t take our eco-friendly Depop shops or stop us from sporting crochet mini dresses all summer long.
For more articles on the nature of the fashion industry, keep reading umsquaremagazine.com! Follow us on Instagram @um.squaremagazine for daily content.
Photos belong to their respective owners.